🎿 First-timer’s guide to Hemsedal – skiing, cabins, and cold adventures

Hemsedal often gets compared to the Alps, and for good reason. Big mountains, proper après-ski, and terrain for everything from fast groomers to untouched powder. But unlike the Alps, you can drive here from Oslo in under four hours.

Where is Hemsedal?

Hemsedal is located between Oslo and Bergen, tucked into the mountains of Viken County. It’s one of Norway’s most established ski destinations – and while the infrastructure is solid, it still has that rugged, Scandinavian feel that makes it special.

If you’re driving from Oslo or Bergen in winter, make sure the car has four-wheel drive – especially if there’s fresh snow or wind on the mountain pass.

What can you do there?

Alpine skiing is the obvious draw. The resort has 20 lifts and over 50 slopes, with terrain for all levels. If you’re into carving, the groomers are fast and well-kept. For more advanced riders, there’s plenty of off-piste to explore – some of it accessible from the lifts, more if you’re willing to hike or go with a guide.

A quick heads-up: Hemsedal is north-facing, which means great snow preservation but not a lot of sun – especially early in the season. On the flip side, the snow tends to last long into spring.

But skiing isn’t the only reason to come:

• 🛷 Snowmobile safaris take you up into the backcountry
• 🐕 Dog sledding is a fun and surprisingly peaceful way to explore the valley
• ❄️ Ice climbing on frozen waterfalls if you’re into vertical adventures
• 🎿 Ski touring opens up a whole new world outside the marked trails

Some of the most popular backcountry zones are Gummiskogen and Nibbi – both offering wide open terrain, solid vertical, and great snow on the right day. These are classic Hemsedal ski touring routes, but avalanche safety and local knowledge are key.

Solheisen – the quieter side

Just a 15-minute drive from the main resort, Solheisen in Grøndalen is a smaller, more relaxed ski area. It’s perfect for families, beginners, or anyone who wants to avoid the lift lines. On powder days it’s a local favourite, and if the main resort is tracked out, Solheisen often still has fresh turns to be had.

Après-ski and where to stay

Stavkroa is Hemsedal’s legendary après-ski spot – packed and loud on weekends, with people dancing in ski boots and beer flying through the air. If that’s your scene, go for it. If not, there are quieter spots to grab a drink and some food (Skistua and Lodgen are safe bets).

For accommodation, you’ve got options:

• Fyri Resort is a newer hotel with a pool club, ski-in/ski-out, and a refined atmosphere
• Skarsnuten Hotel is perched on the mountainside with stunning views and direct access to the slopes
• Or – if you’re after something more relaxed – rent a cabin a few minutes’ drive from the ski area. You’ll often get a sauna, fireplace, and proper mountain views for way less money, especially if you’re a group.

Final thoughts

Hemsedal is one of those places that grows on you. You might come for the skiing, but the place sticks with you – maybe it’s the contrast of wild nature and cozy cabins, or the feeling of skiing powder all day and sitting by the fire at night.

Either way, it’s a solid winter destination. And once you’ve been, you’ll probably start planning the next trip before you leave.

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